byR.A. Rowell; Co-Owner of Intent-sive Nature & the Brand Shamans network

The 1970’s were a great time for RVs and motor homes. So, GMC decided to enter the recreational vehicle market with their own cutting-edge RV. They aimed to create a top-end vehicle that would blow away the competition. How did the GMC motor home fare? Let’s find out if the GMC RV stood up to the competition and if it’s still a viable motor home today.

The GMC Motor Home Design

The most common RV design in the 1970’s was boxy and top-heavy, build onto a truck chassis. So, GMC wanted their motor home to be entirely different. The ad slogan for the GMC motor home was “Doesn’t look like a box or ride like a truck.”

The design work for the GMC RV began in 1970 and it was planned to hit the market in 1973. The GMC motor home had front-wheel drive, rare in cars of the day, and never seen in a motor home. The drivetrain and suspension were taken from the Oldsmobile Toronado design. It had a 455 cubic inch Oldsmobile engine with 265 horsepower.

The engine was attached to a Turbo-Hydramatic 425 transmission with torsion bar suspension. The rear suspension was adapted from the GM bus designs. It used dual swing arms, with one trailing and one leading. Each had a single air spring on each side.

One major difference with the GMC motor home design was that it didn’t use auto body steel in its body. The body was instead made with lightweight aluminum and molded fiberglass-reinforced plastic. These were the same materials used in the Chevy Corvette. It greatly reduced the vehicle weight compared to its contemporary RVs.

These design features all created a very different motor home than others on the market. No other RV at the time had independent swing arm rear suspension or front wheel drive. Also, without a drive shaft or axles underneath the coach, the floor height could be much lower, meaning a lower center of gravity.

The motor home also featured a six-wheel braking system. There were disc brakes on the front and drum brakes on the four rear wheels. This further enhanced the vehicle’s drivability.

These features made the handling of the GMC RV easier than the boxy RVs of the time. It also made for easier entry and exit from the vehicle, reduced wind resistance and rollover risk. It made the GMC motor home far easier to operate and safer for those who had no prior experience driving vehicles larger than a car.

Interior Design Features of the GMC Motor Home

Previous motor home designs focused on the comforts of using the RV as a home away from home at a camping spot or mobile home park. The GMC motor home was targeted a somewhat different type of RV buyer. It was designed to make getting to the destination less cumbersome and easier for the everyday driver. Also, the GMC RV featured a panoramic windshield, making the view of the road superior to pretty much any other motor home at the time.

The GMC motor home was available in 23 foot and 26 foot lengths. This actually was a fairly small RV even at the time. The motor home’s interior was compact and featured no permanent sleeping areas. Beds were converted from sleeping areas when needed. This allowed for better use of interior space.

The fridge was powered by a standard auto battery. While this was fine for short-term use, its power source was only good enough for overnight before it needed recharging. Also, the water heaters were quite effective, using engine coolant loops. Unfortunately, the water could become so hot - with temperature in excess of 200 degrees Fahrenheit, that it could actually represent a scalding hazard. So, you had to be careful.

Thirty different floor plans were available, so there were many different interior options. This wide variety of floor plans allowed you to find a model that fit your specific vacation plans best. So, how would the GMC motor home fare on the open market?

The GMC Motor Home on the Market

The GMC RV prototype debuted at the Transpro ‘72 trade show in May 1972 in Washington, DC. Production began in 19773 with two models. There were the 23-foot Model 230 and the 26-foot Model 260. GMC actually produced motor homes with both finished interiors and unfinished interiors. Those unfinished interiors were sold to Avion and Coachman, who then furnished the RVs with their own interiors before reselling them. On the open market, GMC motor homes were priced between $35,000 and $40,000.

Unfortunately, despite GMC having innovative design for their motor home, they entered the market right before the energy crisis. With fuel prices skyrocketing, many people decided not to buy the larger motor homes any more. To increase fuel efficiency, GMC replaced the Oldsmobile 455 engine with a 185-hp, 403 cubic inch engine. This engine was actually seen in many other Oldsmobiles at the time.

Because of the poor timing at entering the market, the GMC motor home never sold a high volume. After producing 12,921 vehicles, GMC decided to retire their motor home after the 1978 model year and switch to light trucks.

The Collectibility of GMC Motor Homes

The good news for GMC motor homes is that their relative rarity made them instant collectibles almost the moment that production stopped. Fans of the GMC RV created owners’ associations to make getting parts and service for these unusual motor homes fairly easy. In fact, service for these vehicles even became a cottage industry.

In 1992, when GMC decided to scrap all remaining parts and tools for the motor homes, Cinnabar Engineering seized the opportunity to purchase all of the remaining supplies. They also negotiated a deal with GMC to continue providing parts for the GMC motor homes.

That same year, a monthly magazine called GMC Motor Home Marketplace debuted. Two years later, Cinnabar started publishing the quarterly newsletter called GMC Motor Home News. This publication ran through December 2010. GMC Motor Homes became collectible toys, too. Mattel even created more than fifty different diecast GMC Motor Homes models for their Hot Wheels line. In 1977, Mattel even released three toy GMC Motor Homes as a Barbie Doll Star Traveler promo.

The Loyalty of GMC Motor Home Owners

There are still over 8,000 GMC motor homes registered today. Many of them are still worthy of camping trips! There are still plenty of places online to find more information about the GMC Motor Home and find parts and places that will service them. Because of their rarity and popularity, used GMC motor homes still sell north of $10,000 on the open market. Models in top condition can fetch $15,000 or more.

What do you think of the GMC motor home?

by R.A. Rowell; Co-Owner of Intent-sive Nature & the Brand Shamans network

Are you a regular weekend camper who would love to own an RV but don’t want to invest in a motorhome or travel trailer and aren’t really a fan of pop-up campers? Don’t worry! There’s an economical and easy way to enjoy the RV life that you can slide right into the bed of a pickup truck. Learn the pros of truck campers and how they can be a great option for your camping needs.


Truck Campers are Compact, But Still Comfortable!

You may be thinking, how can a camper that fits into the back of my truck be comfortable? Actually, compared to many other RVs, truck campers offer many of the same comforts of a larger trailer or motorhome. So, if you don’t want to do traditional tent camping, a truck camper gives you a lot of the benefits of an RV for a lower price and ease of transport.

While there are basic truck campers that offer little more than a bed, there are truck campers with kitchen and bathroom facilities. Some truck campers even have slide-outs for additional living space! While small, truck campers can serve as practical, efficient little camping vehicles.

Truck campers sit securely inside of the flatbed portion of your pickup truck. The major advantage of a truck camper is that it greatly reduces your overall footprint. While travel trailers and motorhomes can be large and cumbersome, truck campers fit right into a truck. So, you can be just as mobile as you would ordinarily would be inside of your truck.

A truck camper also allows you to go on much rougher roads that most people would typically risk with a trailer, fifth wheel, or motor home. Your truck’s 4x4 capability won’t be at all hampered by having a truck camper installed, long as your truck is able to carry the added weight efficiently.



Truck Campers are Lightweight and Easy on Your Truck’s Gas Mileage!

Truck campers are built with wood and steel frames just like most other RVs. Then, they are covered by corrugated aluminum or fiberglass siding. Some more high-end truck campers are even insulated for greater comfort and year-round usability. Still, being so much lighter than most towables, your truck’s gas mileage won’t be all that affected by it being there.

Despite just fitting into a truck cab and being an average of only eight feet long, even the most basic truck camper contains more than you’d think. The more basic truck campers have sinks with hot & cold water, a stovetop, Porta-Potty with removable storage tank, a sitting area, and generously-sized sleeping area. While many smaller models don’t contain a shower inside, they do often have an outdoor shower with a privacy curtain provided with the camper itself. Even small truck campers additionally have propane and water storage tanks, so boondocking for a short time is a possibility.

Higher-end truck campers can be as long as twelve feet length with over-cab extensions. These deluxe campers can have a small bathroom with a shower inside. You can even have a queen-sized bed with a flat-screen plasma TV and surround sound system to watch and listen to when hanging out on cold or rainy nights. You can even cook a full meal with a multiple burner stove top and oven, with a fridge and freezer to store plenty of food. With the same heating and cooling system as regular campers, why rent a hotel room?


How Much Do Truck Campers Cost?

Most truck campers are even more affordable than the low-end travel trailers and motorhomes. You can find them brand-new for under $10,000, and they are considerably less if you buy them used. Some RV dealers even sell truck campers along with a truck to slide it into, which can be an even better deal. The best part is that you don’t even need a high-end truck for most truck campers.

There are higher-end truck campers which can approach $30,000 in price that have additional amenities such as the insulation and slide-outs. But, it’s likely that you can find a truck camper within your budget if you decide on what factors are most important for you. Here are some things to consider when setting out to buy a truck camper.

• What weight of truck camper can my truck handle? The lighter truck campers will typically be significantly less expensive than the heavier ones with added amenities. The larger truck campers can be as heavy as 3,000 lbs, so keep this in mind.
• Do I want to detach my camper from my truck while staying at a campsite? You can buy a jack to make your truck camper free-standing when at home or at a campsite. So, consider this additional expense if you want this option.
• What space must my truck camper have? Truck campers come in so many shapes and sizes. Some have cabovers, pop-up roofs, and even slideouts. These options allow you to maximize your storage and living space, but can come at significant added cost.
• What creature comforts must my truck camper have? Ideally you want your truck camper to have an air conditioner, toilet, and some sort of kitchen, even if its just a simple camp stove, mini-fridge, and/or a microwave.
• Do I want to be able to use my truck camper year-round? If you want to use your truck camper year-round, it’s a good idea to buy a winterized model. These winterized truck campers include double-glazed windows, heated tanks, upgraded insulation, and a higher BTU furnace than those found in basic models.

Can I Live Out of a Truck Camper for Full Time RV Living?

If it’s just you, or one other person, planning to do full time RV living, a truck camper is an economical and practical option. For full time RV living, you certainly want to have a winterized model with at least a cab-over area and perhaps slide-outs, with at least a kitchenette and toilet facility. So, yes, with a weatherized model with a fair amount of living and storage space, it’s most certainly possible. That’s especially true if you have an extended cab truck for additional storage.

With a truck camper and a reliable pickup truck, you can go just about anywhere and fit into regular parking spaces with ease. If you’re not comfortable with towing a large trailer or fifth wheel and don’t want to deal with the higher fuel costs and size of a motorhome, a truck camper is a great alternative for those that want to live the RV life!

Installing vinyl flooring in your RV can be a great way to save on many levels. Find out below five of the ways we found it helpful and why we installed it in our RV ourselves almost immediately.

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Mud And Spills Clean Up Easy

The RV life often involves raw and dirty adventuring -- and sometimes kids. Oh yes, and  some of those nasty RV only messes that can happen in the restroom...well, we won;t go all the way there.  For all those unfortunate messes in your motorhome or camper, vinyl flooring makes cleanup so much easier.

Vinyl Flooring Makes A Great Waterproof Barrier

When we purchased our RV, we noticed the previous owners just painted straight over the sub-floor. Not a super huge deal. But that made it more vulnerable to going bad faster. So, we decided to cover it up with vinyl flooring almost immediately. This actually has helped create a waterproof barrier and keep the sub-floor sturdy much longer. This way, if our roof ever leaks or we have some nasty spill or accident, it's less likely to ruin the sub-floor.

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Get That Clean "Home" Feel At A Low Cost

If you like the look of tiles, but want something more versatile and convenient, vinyl flooring may be the way to go. As you can see in the above pictures taken during our installation of the vinyl tiles, they completely change the look of the entire motorhome.

It's Lightweight

Many tiles can be heavy and easy to break. This creates multiple problems in a rolling home. Vinyl flooring is lightweight and harder to crack. Even if you do somehow manage to mess up a spot, they are easier and cheaper to fill in. Imagine all the extra weight that would be added to your RV if you used traditional tiles. No thank you. I don't know about you, but ours has enough extra weight added as it is.

Vinyl Flooring Is Easy To Install

And of course, one of the best reasons to install vinyl flooring is that it's super easy to do. There are so many projects and repairs in an RV if you use it often. Vinyl flooring will allow you to do it yourself inexpensively and quickly without having to hire help and pay an extra cost.

Most people know that bungee cords of all sizes are handy to have around. But I bet you never thought of these 10 handy uses for bungees in your motorhome or trailer. Get some bungee cords today and put them to use in your RV to see how well they work.

1. Simple Curtain Tie

Attach an eye hook to the wall and use it secure the tie when you need your curtain to stay open. Any lightweight bungee will do the trick, unless your curtain is exceptionally heavy. We found the 3-pack from the Dollar Tree works fine for ours.

 2. Portable Toilet

If you're temporarily using a portable toilet in your RV, you know it may shift when driving. To avoid accidental spillage, secure an eye hook to the wall behind the toilet on both sides. Then, attach a bungee. Be sure to leave space to use your flush handle, if you have one. The thicker, rubber  ones are best to use in this instance, as they tend to hold more weight. We spent less than 2 bucks at Home Depot getting one that works for this. Our portable toilet is  a Camco 5.3 Gallon.

 3. Secure a Room While Driving

We used a long, thick bungee that was about two bucks at Home Depot to secure the bathroom area before we fixed it. This helped while driving because it prevented everything from flying around. This is good if your bathroom (or another room) is under construction, like ours was. It also helps if you have any other area where there may be loose furniture or other semi-big items. The bungee held in a portable washing machine, a baby gate that kept the toilet secure, and a few miscellaneous things that were tucked around those items.

 4. Prevent Shelves From Losing Items Or Falling

Your wall shelves should be secure, ideally. But if you want some extra protection, try using a bungee cord to secure the shelf even further. We often do this if we want to place something on the shelf that might otherwise fall while driving. It could be a book someone is reading here and there or something else fairly lightweight. This isn't a good solution for heavier items.

(Pardon the sawdust in the picture. This was taken right after setting up this particular fix.)

5. Prevent Cabinets From Opening While Driving

Since we are in an older motorhome, this is a common problem, as we are under construction. This is a good temporary fix if your existing hardware isn't the best or you are missing the latches. In our case, we just needed to fix the latches. We don't need to use this anymore. But it worked to keep items from flying while we awaited delivery of the appropriate hardware. The simple Dollar Tree bungees were fine for this as well.

6. Secure Loose Work Items

When we were doing a lot of work on our vintage RV, this one helped a ton. We kept a Homer Bucket from Home Depot full with all kinds of tools and hardware that we were using every day. We didn't want to have to keep putting away and taking out these items every time we had to drive somewhere. So, we kept it secure with a bungee. The Dollar Tree bungees were fine for this as well. But remember that the heavier the item, the stronger the bungee cord should be.

7. Secure a Loose Door While Driving - If your door is loose and you need to secure it while driving to the repair shop or elsewhere, try using a bungee. Fasten it to the latch and/or screen and secure it to the inside to prevent your door from banging back and forth.

8. Tie Down Luggage - This may seem obvious, but not everyone thinks of it. If you have extra luggage that you don't want stored inside, try securing it to the roof with bungees. Heavy duty bungees should be used for this.

9. Secure an Infant Stroller - If you have a large infant stroller, like our Graco double stroller, you may not want to store it inside your rig all the time. Unless the weather is bad, we prefer to bungee ours to the cargo carrier luggage rack on back. That way, it's easy to grab and then store when going in and out of stores or entertainment facilities. This also works if you want to store the stroller inside because you may not be able to fit it inside a closet. In this case, you can bungee it to keep it from roaming around your RV.

10. Secure a Cooler Full of Groceries - If you just picked up a bunch of groceries and want to wait to put them away until you get to camp, you can throw them all in a large cooler and secure it with a bungee on the roof, in a rooftop cargo box, or in a  cargo carrier.

by    Lyn Lomasi; Co-owner of  Brand Shamans & Write W.A.V.E. Media

When deciding to live or camp in your RV for the winter, there are many things to consider. The most important factors include keeping the heat inside (and cold air out) and keeping all of your tanks and connections from freezing. Watch the videos below to learn what you can do to properly winterize your RV for winter living and camping. Be sure you don't winterize it for storage, rather than living, as there is more than one type of winterizing.  We love the advice from the two experts in the videos below, as they offer practical tips everyone can follow and they both have different things you can apply.

by    Lyn Lomasi; Co-owner of  Brand Shamans & Write W.A.V.E. Media

Need to replace the fabric on your RV awning? Why fight with it, trying (and failing) to figure it yourself? Don't risk injury. Instead, watch this video to make sure you do it right (and easily) the first time.

by    Lyn Lomasi; Co-owner of  Brand Shamans & Write W.A.V.E. Media

If your RV sink is turned off or broken in some way, there are still several ways to make use of it. Find out which way is right for you, based on how bad your RV sink situation really is.

Method One: Hand-Fill and Drain Later

This method is best for those who have a working drain and a grey water tank that is less than ¾ full. If your p-trap is leaking, do not use this method. However, if there are no leaks when your pump is turned off and your grey water drains into the tank properly (and your tank is capped with the release valve closed), you can use this method.

Since your RV sink pump will be turned off, you must be either boondocking or you have an issue when the pump is turned on. This means you will need a couple gallons of water. One is for a rinse bucket and the other is for your washing water. You can either buy this water or if you are at an RV park (or other location) with access to water, you can fill up a jug or bucket accordingly.

Plug your drain and fill one side of your turned off RV sink with water. Add antibacterial dish soap and swish it around to make it soapy. Add dishes and wash them. Place them in the empty side of the sink and drain the soapy side. If you have a heat source available, you can boil the water first for added disinfecting. Use the rinse jug or bucket to rinse the dishes over the unplugged side of the sink. Again, only do this if your tank can hold both the rinse water, as well as the soapy water.

Dry the dishes inside the clean sink, on a dry towel, or in a drying rack. Once you have access to a sewer drain hookup, drain your grey water tank. If you can’t get access to a hookup and you need to drain it, drain it into a bucket, safely handle/store it, and drain the bucket as soon as there is a safe place to do so.

Method Two: Hand-Fill and Hand Drain

This method is best used if your RV sink drains well, but the tank is full. Follow the same instructions as above, except don’t drain the water into the sink. Both sides should be plugged. When emptying is needed, siphon the water out with a jug and pour it into a bucket. Follow proper safety methods for disposing of the grey water in the bucket. If there is any residue left in the sink that cannot be siphoned, use a towel to soak it up and dry and clean the towel as soon as possible.

Method Three: Cover the Drain Hole and Use Bins in the Basins

This method is basically the same as method two, except you’re going to use bins to do the washing into so that as little as possible gets into the actual RV sink. This is best for when you either don’t want to siphon out water or don't want to risk getting too much water into the actual sink.

Other Possible Options

• Use the bathroom sink at a rest stop
  
• Use the bathroom sink at a camp ground
• Borrow a friend’s sink
  
• Use disposable dishes so you don’t need to wash dishes